Global crisis, shared responsibility

Share risks fairly and choose responsible procurement in times of war and energy crisis

The war between Iran and the United States and the subsequent energy crisis painfully show how vulnerable global production chains are. CNV Internationaal calls on Dutch clothing brands to take responsibility and ensure ethical sourcing practices. What is a cost increase for companies should not become a livelihood crisis for garment workers in Asia. Crisis should never be an excuse to tear down labour rights

Responsible sourcing is not a marketing choice, but a prerequisite for decent work in global garment chains. In addition, responsible business practices ensure resilient supply chains, which is also very important for companies in times of crisis.

Crisis already hitting apparel sector

Rising energy prices, more expensive raw materials and disrupted logistics are affecting businesses worldwide. The Netherlands and Europe are taking protective measures for households and businesses at this end of the chain. In manufacturing countries like Cambodia, such safety nets are largely missing.

Garment factories there operate on low margins and therefore have limited financial buffers. When garment brands shift, change or cancel their orders, the consequences are directly passed on to workers.

The costs of the crisis slide down the chain - to people who could barely make ends meet even before.

Impact on garment workers in Asia

Programme coordinator for the textile sector Isabelle de Lijser of CNV Internationaal and our local union partners see that the impact on workers is rapidly increasing:

Rising fuel costs are hitting workers hardest but food prices have also skyrocketed. While the cost of living continues to rise, wages are falling. Garment workers are working fewer and fewer hours or are fired. Anyone who says anything about it is the first to be fired.

Due to fuel shortages, factories are shutting down production without wage payment or severance pay.

Wages are paid too late, too low or not at all.

The position of workers becomes increasingly precarious due to layoffs, shorter working weeks, and informalisation of work. As a result, it becomes increasingly difficult to earn a living wage.

Migrants face an additional risk of loss of income and exploitation. This situation increases global inequality and undermines the labour rights of workers in the garment industry that is essential to the economy in countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh and Cambodia.

Support now is also in the interest of businesses

Supporting production sites in times of crisis is not only a matter of solidarity, but also of sound entrepreneurship. Brands that keep their suppliers afloat now invest in stable production, skilled workers and reliable long-term supply security.

By paying on time, charging fair prices and not passing on costs, companies avoid bankruptcies, production stoppages and loss of expertise. This reduces the risks of disruptions, reputational damage and long-term costs in the future.

Responsible procurement is thus not a cost, but a strategic investment in resilient and sustainable chains.

What do we expect from clothing brands?

Responsible purchasing is necessary now

Clothing brands play a crucial role here and can make a difference in the current war crisis.

In the context of armed conflict or a heightened risk of serious wrongdoing, the starting point of the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises is for companies to conduct heightened scrutiny, with regard to adverse impacts.

CNV Internationaal therefore calls on companies to:

Continue to engage with trade unions in Europe and producing countries on the impact of the war on workers.
Continue or engage with suppliers on the impact of war on business operations.
Pay all orders in full and on time, even in the event of delays or temporary production stoppages.
Not to cancel orders, reduce prices or abuse force majeure clauses in contracts.
Not pass on the extra costs of the crisis (energy, transport, raw materials) to suppliers.
Adjust prices so that wages can grow in line with inflation and rising living costs.
Establish and maintain long-term relationships with suppliers and avoid sudden relocation of production.
Encourage social dialogue between employers, workers and government on the impact of this crisis and contribute to solutions where possible.
Protect workers in the event of factory closures, including wage payments and severance payments.

Crisis should never be an excuse to erode labour rights.

What is needed from European governments?

CNV Internationaal calls on European governments to:

Include clear, specific guidelines on crisis situations for responsible procurement in the guidelines for the European due diligence law CSDDD.
Actively support social dialogue in international chains.
Support sectoral cooperation initiatives so that companies can learn from each other what responsible procurement looks like in practice.
Ensure coherent energy, trade and industrial policies that do not indirectly cause cost savings at the expense of workers in supply chains such as textiles.

Voluntary agreements are not sufficient to protect workers in conflict and crisis situations.

Consumers also play a role

Cheap clothing often has a hidden price. Behind low prices are workers who take the brunt of crises.

Consumers can challenge brands, ask questions about fair wages and responsible sourcing, and choose companies that are transparent and take responsibility.

By letting brands know that exploitation is unacceptable, consumers strengthen the position of workers worldwide. Solidarity does not stop at the checkout.

Solidarity is not a luxury but a necessity

When companies and governments fail now, global crises are structurally passed on to the most vulnerable in the chain. This is unjust and makes production chains unstable and unsustainable. Global crises require joint responsibility - from producers, garment brands, trade unions and governments here and in producing countries.

Publication date 17 05 2026